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The 2011 Santa Barbara County Vintner's Association Celebration of Harvest

This year at the Celebration of Harvest it was warm and sunny, with a light cool breeze.

At the end of one of summer’s last hot days, the fog rolled in over the mountains off the ocean and the temperature dropped precipitously. I gave a shiver and headed down to the wine cellar for a nice rich red to warm me up. To my horror I realized that after a summer of barbeques and weddings, the cupboard was perilously bare. 
  Thank goodness it was time for Santa Barbara County’s Celebration of Harvest, the annual fall vintner’s festival! It is my favorite way to restock. When is shopping more fun than when strolling from booth to booth, savoring the afterglow of a mouthful of earthy Pinot Noir or fruity Chardonnay and listening to live music on a sunny afternoon?
  I make a list of my favorites that lasts me all year, so that I won’t have to stand in front of a bottle of wine in the market reading the little card in front of it and wondering what the Wine Spectator really meant when it gave it an 89.
  You can’t purchase wine at the festival, but many of the wineries have order forms or special offers available to those who attend, and it is a great way to taste wines you might not otherwise run across.

Taster's at the Trattoria Uliveto booth enjoying the festivities.

Tasters at the Trattoria Uliveto booth
enjoying the festivities.

  Harvest is well underway, and picking will continue through November. Since Father Junipero Serra brought grapevine cuttings from Mexico to the California Missions in 1782 the number of vineyards has exploded to over 100 wineries planting close to 20,000 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Rhône, Italian and Spanish varietals. More than 65 varieties of grapes are grown locally.

  The orientation of the mountains and proximity to the ocean make part of our area one of the coolest in California for growing wine grapes. Slower growth gives the grapes extra time hanging on the vine, allowing them to develop the wonderful flavors, acids and tannins that give a wine its richness and individual character. The more interior parts of Santa Barbara County tend to be hotter and to have the type of soil that produces the best Cabernet grapes.
  So on October 8th I headed up Foxen Canyon Road, past the straight rows of leafy vines, shady ancient oaks, and cross-fenced horse ranches to the Santa Barbara Vintner’s Association annual Celebration of Harvest at historic Rancho Sisquoc. The midst of harvest is an exciting time to explore the latest offerings from our local wineries, each with their distinctive terroir.
  Celebration of Harvest is a great chance to savor the diverse complexity of flavors born of the valley’s many micro-climates.
  It was wonderfully festive, strolling through the food and wine booths, munching on tasty delicacies and experiencing an astonishing variety of wines, from crisp young whites to time mellowed reds brought out of hiding for the occasion. Several of the wineries pull special reserve bottles out of their libraries, and I’ve had some sublime surprises.
  Treats from the area’s finest restaurants, caterers and specialty food purveyors were a satisfying complement to the wines. This year there was everything from pasta to steak, veggie kabobs, flatbread pizza and a marvelous shrimp with avocado hummus on toast, all from our best local eateries. The tasty sampling of local bounty always amazes me with its quality and creativity, alerting me to new possibilities the next time I go out or entertain.

  There were two music stages in the midst of the booths this year; bluesy, country folk-rocker Sean Wiggins and Lone Goat performed, as well as jazz singer Margie Nelson.
  Everyone was in a convivial mood, and the weather was perfect; warm and sunny with a light cool breeze.
  Sometimes I hanker for a big, oaky Syrah and others I crave a delicate Riesling. There is always far more variety than I can possibly taste at Celebration of Harvest. I had to be ruthless about just tasting, or I wouldn’t have made it past the first row of booths. I was excited to find my new “best favorite”, which lasted for a booth or two until a new taste seemed even better.
  I tasted some delicious wines from well known, established labels like Longoria and Byron, finally tasted Tercera’s Syrah after wanting to for months. Delicious! I even found a very respectable Syrah from Coghlan, a brand new winery in their first year of production.

Tasty BBQ from the Hitching Post gave us the strength to keep up the pace.

Tasty BBQ from the Hitching Post gave us the strength to keep up the pace.

  Whether I was in the mood for the fresh bite of an austere young wine or the big impression of a full bodied, well balanced wine with a complex bouquet and smooth finish, with so many to choose from, my biggest disappointment was that I couldn’t possibly taste them all. The wines I tasted were from 2005 through 2009, and even the youngest reds were very drinkable. I was impressed.
  The day after the Celebration of Harvest I stocked up for the upcoming entertaining, gift giving and family visits that deplete the best stocked cellar this time of year. I have some wonderful Pinot Noir to lay down for a year or two, and lots of new Pinot Grigio and Syrah for the holidays.
  The healthy Pinot vines Alan Hancock students gave me at the festival last year did beautifully until the deer ate them down to the graft.  This year, I’m planning netting and a fence.

  In between festivals, you can discover glorious new delights for your palate at one of the many tasting rooms in the valley. Check out the Tasting Rooms map on the back cover of this magazine.
  If you missed Celebration of Harvest in October, your next opportunity will be in early April: the annual Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Festival. For more information you can go to  the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association’s excellent website at www.sbcountywines.com. They have tips, maps and lots of event listings at the
individual wineries.

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