In Defense of Merlot
By Kate Bardessono

Since the movie “Sideways” was filmed here in the Santa Ynez Valley, we in the wine industry have often been asked about the now famous line, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving!” by the lead character, Miles Raymond, played by actor Paul Giamatti. Due to that snotty remark, one of America’s favorite table wines is reported to have suffered a significant, but hopefully temporary, setback in its popularity.   We had heard that distributor sales of Merlot in Santa Barbara County had definitely seen a decline since the movie's premier. We were also told that tasting rooms, stores and restaurants had also noted fewer tasters and sales of Merlot. We had also heard that Merlot’s palate, friendly style and loyal followers had fortunately kept it from falling off the map altogether.	There is no other red wine that you can quaff before dinner that will not interfere with the taste of a variety of foods.
We decided to visit some local tasting rooms to ask about their experiences.   But first, some background on Merlot. Since the late 1980s, Merlot’s rising marketability went hand in hand with its popularity in planting and its ease of drinking. Merlot worked its way up the marketing chain to be what you would typically see as the ‘house red’ on your favorite restaurant’s menu.   Easy to pronounce, and affordable, Merlot has been the bread and butter of many a winery. There’s no other red wine that you can quaff before dinner that will not interfere with the taste of a variety of foods, kill your taste buds with tannins, or fire up your indigestion with acidity. Some of my girlfriends have been fondly called “Merlot girls,” as opposed to the “Chardonnay girls,” who would only drink white wine. Such nicknames came from drinking the two most popular wines sold in America.
Luis Lucas in his "Save Merlot" shirt at the Vintner's Festival.	My fellow wine taster and neighbor, Raiza Canalon, and I went out to Solvang to talk to the local tasting room associates about the reported impact on Merlot sales. We had already heard that the industry had seen a 30% increased in visitors since the movie "Sideways" was released, and every one of the shops were busy when we arrived early on a Thursday.   Ian Dicey, the young man pouring at Morovino Fine Wine stated that they had not noticed much of an impact, if any, in the sale of Merlot to their customers. “Merlot lovers buy Merlot anyway,” he said. “However, there is definitely an increase in the questions that people have regarding Merlot, and whether or not it is really a bad wine.”
The Morovino 1999 Merlot that we sampled was from a great local fruit source called Bien Nacido Vineyards, and the wine was a good deal at $9.99 a bottle. The tasting list describes the flavor as rich, smoky and fruity, and they recommend having it with steak dinners. In the tasting I also noticed scents of hickory and olive, with hints of bacon, mushroom, and cherry on the palate.   Our next stop was Stolpman Vineyards where the tasting room assistant, Katherine Kepler, was pouring the 2002 Merlot. This wine was produced in limited quantities from a small, 20-acre vineyard. With only 245 cases made, I felt that $15 a bottle was quite a reasonable price.	As the seasons change, so do the grape vines in hue and color. A harvest of color for photo opportunities.
Kathy stated that it has been her experience that the reaction to "Sideways'" negative Merlot quip has actually had the opposite effect than what one might have expected. “The statement has galvanized Merlot tasters,” she said. "They now say, “I don’t want any stinking Pinot Noir--give me the good stuff, Merlot!” The tasting list describes their Merlot with ripe flavors of blueberries, cinnamon, woody smoke, and soft cherries. By the end of the day, I had decided that this was by far the richest, most distinctive Merlot in town, certainly a dinner wine that would measure up to a rich bacon-wrapped filet mignon! Greg Heath is the tasting room manager at Royal Oaks, where we visited after having some crackers and water to clear our palates. This is always a good thing to do while sampling red wines, to help clear away any residual tannins or flavors. Greg had been pouring wine at Kalyra Winery during the time that they were filming the movie "Sideways" there, and actually appears in the film as himself. Greg says that his customers are, in general, asking more about the movie and the wines, but view the statement about Merlot as more of a funny line than a statement about wine. Their Merlot sales have not been affected, and I can see why. The Royal Oaks Estate Merlot 2001 is very quaffable, as it is light and fruity with flavors of plums and cherries. Although the alcohol content is high (14.9), there is no bitter alcohol taste, or a ‘hot’ sensation. This wine would be best served with light appetizers or even on its own.
Summer vines at one of the many Santa Ynez Valley Vineyards.	At Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards, the most dramatic change that they have seen since the release of "Sideways" is the increase in their Pinot Noir sales. Tasting Room Manager, Andrew Moore, who can also been seen in the movie Sideways, reinforces the opinions of other tasting room associates that there is an increase in the curiosity about their wines, but not a decrease in their sales of Merlot. Says Andrew, “There are good and bad wines in any variety.”

  In all fun, Louis Lucas has created a shirt with a caption that reads “Save Merlot!” The Lucas and Lewellen 2001 Merlot retails for $22 a bottle, and the grapes are from their Los Alamos vineyard. It was aged 12 months in new French oak, and to increase richness of texture, they added 15% Cabernet Franc. The tasting notes say the flavors are black cherry, tea, earth, and spice. It is definitely a wine worth serving with a fine dinner, or to tease your palate beforehand.
   Fred Golin at Presidio Winery said that they have already run out of their Merlot that was released in August. “Some customers comment that they won’t drink Merlot, but most are more interested in the filming of the movie, than about the wine.” There are now "Sideways" menus being served at all of the restaurants featured in the movie, and what’s even more curious is that hotel at which the film’s main characters stayed is now taking reservations months in advance.
   In my opinion, Merlot can be quite good, and plays a very important part in our world of wine. One of my favorite blends is what I refer to as “the trinity of Bordeaux.” It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which produces a symphony of taste that depends on the character of each variety. Cabernet Sauvignon is in the center palate, full of richly layered flavors, bold tannins, and chewy texture. Cabernet Franc is softly textured, like velvet, and combines juicy flavors of berries and spices, bringing much of the taste forward in the glass and on the tongue. Then the suave Merlot grapes provide a bright fruity flavor and a sensationally smooth structure that softens the tannins and draws it all out to a long, rich finish that you can breathe through, as well as taste.
   There are many critics that agree that Merlot is not a poor cousin to Cabernet Sauvignon. Let us not forget that one of the most coveted wines by collectors is the Chateau Petrus Pomeral, which is, of course, a Merlot. In 2003, the Wine Spectator magazine named the 2001 Paloma Spring Mountain District Merlot its wine of the year, the first Merlot to receive that honor. In a recent issue of the same publication, wine critic James Laube noted, “There's a weird irony in that his (Miles’) favorite wine is Cheval Blanc, from St. Emilion, which is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. I think it's intended to show that wine snobs, though they talk a good game, don't know what they're talking about."
   Well said!